All About Skirts 3

Ruffled Hem Skirt

Ruffled Hem Skirt a

I will take you through the additional steps for this skirt and you can follow on the rest with the Beginners Skirt Tutorial.

This time I made a Size 2 Skirt so I will use those measurements in this tutorial.  You can change the measurements easily to make a different size!

What you will need,

  • Fabric – can use two different ones like I did or just one
  • 25mm (1”) Elastic (2 inches less then waist measurement)

Step 1 – Measure and Cut

Measure and cut your fabric.  For this one I used inches but have included both inches and centimetres, that is why the decimal places.  It doesn’t need to be accurate to the last millimetre!

For a Size 2 – Waist 52cm (20.5”) and length to knee 22cm (8.75”), substitute your own measurements for a different size.

Ruffled Hem Skirt Chart 2

Piece One – Waist x 1.5 by desired length (will get to that in a minute!)

Piece Two – Waist x 2 by desired length

Ruffled Hem Skirt (2)

Desired Length!  Work out the finished length you want the skirt to be.  You can measure one you already have, of measure the wearer or look it up online there is a link to one on the Beginners Skirt Tutorial.

In my case I want it to be on the knee which for a Size 2 is 22cm (8.75”).  Now we need to add an allowance for the waistband, fabric join and hem. I add 7.5cm (3”), if you like a larger hem add more!  So the total length 30cm (11.75”).

To alter this for your size you need to work out the finished length you want and add the 7.5cm (3”) seam allowance.  The ratio I work from is roughly 70% for the top piece and 30% for the ruffle hem.  So for one more example if you would like a 25.4cm (10”) skirt, then your top piece would be 17.8cm (7”) and the ruffle piece would be 7.6cm (3”).  As with most things, this is purely up to you!  If you want a larger or smaller ruffle go for it!  As long as the total adds up you can do any amount of each as you like.

Step 2 – Ruffles!

Ruffle the bottom piece.  I ruffle the easy way, where the sewing machine does it for you!  Set your thread tension as high as it will go (on my machine it is 9) and set it to the longest stitch (on mine 4), see the photo below!

Ruffled Hem Skirt b

Sew one straight line close to the edge of the fabric, I used the edge of my presser foot as a guide.  Leave plenty of thread at both ends of the fabric.  DO NOT lock stitch or reverse at the beginning or the end!!!  I have other tutorials with ruffles you can check out Superhero Cape and Gorgeous Girls Dress.

You can wriggle the ruffles along the thread, if you need to to pull on just one of the free threads help it along.  You need to make the ruffled piece the same length as the top piece of fabric, and fairly evenly spread.

Ruffled Hem Skirt (7)

Step 3 – Sew the pieces together

Lay the ruffled piece on top of the other piece, both pieces right sides facing each other (photo below!).  Pin in place, and sew with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.  You should be sewing on the outside of the line used to pull the ruffles so you won’t see it when its folded out.

Ruffled Hem Skirt c

Overlock or zigzag the edge

Ruffled Hem Skirt d

Step 4 – Iron

As always you really need to iron to get a good finish on your sewing!  Iron the seam up so that it sits against the non ruffled side of the seam.

Ruffled Hem Skirt (12)

Step 5 – Topstitch

Topstitch the seam to keep it nice and flat.  I also really like the look of the top stitching, it gives the skirt a great finish.  See!!!

Ruffled Hem Skirt (14)

Step 6 – Side seam

With the other skirts I have folded out the side seam to reduce the bulk, but with the ruffles I prefer to sew the side seam as one.  This just means you sew the sides together and then overlock/zigzag rather than the other way around.

Ruffled Hem Skirt e

Sew the side seam with 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, then overlock/zigzag.  Try your best to line up the ruffle seam!

Ruffled Hem Skirt (19)

Ruffled Hem Skirt h

As you can see it ended up the perfect length I wanted.  It is going to look great on a gorgeous little girl ♥

Step 7 – Follow on

Time to head over to the Beginners Skirt Tutorial and follow on from Step 3!

One more handy little tip…

Ruffled Hem Skirt f

Write the size on the back of the label!  If you are anything like me the projects go way ahead of what you need.  So can end up being a little while before they go to their new owners, and it can be hard to remember which size which one was!  Before I used labels I used to sew in a piece of folded over ribbon for this, it also helps the child work out where the back of the garment is.

I hope you are are enjoying all the skirts!  Still a few more to come!