All About Skirts 4

Flat Fronted Skirt

I have just added the Expandable Pocket Tutorial and now for the skirt I had in mind for it!

Flat Fronted Dress a

What you will need

  • Fabric (amount depends on size)
  • 25mm (1”) Elastic
  • Expandable Pocket

Step 1

Measure the waist size for the skirt.  Or see the first All About Skirts Tutorial for the link to the sizing charts.

I am making a Size 4.  This has a waist measurement of 21” and for an above the knee length 10.75”.  I have done this one in inches as that it the units on the sizing chart I use.

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Front Piece

  • The waist is 21” divide by 2 = 10.5” add 1” = 11.5”
  • The Length is 10.75” add 3” = 13.75”
  • Front Pattern Piece needs to be 11.5” x 13.75”

Back Piece

Is much simpler!  It is the waist measurement by the desired length.  So for the Size 4 it is 21” x 13.75”.

Step 2

Pin the side seam and sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance, then overlock or zigzag the edge to prevent fraying.

Flat Fronted Dress b

Repeat with the other side seam!  It should look like this ☺

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Step 3

Iron the seams flat and overlock/zigzag the top and bottom.

Flat Fronted Dress c

Step 4

Fold over and iron the overlocked/zigzagged edge, then fold over again to make the waistband.  If you are using patterned fabric make sure the waistband is at the top!  Use the elastic as a guide, I have left a little more room this time as I want to topstitch the top edge of the waistband.

Flat Fronted Dress d

Step 5

We will sew this waistband in two parts.  The back first then after the elastic is inserted the front.  Mark your two seams with pins so you don’t sew to far!  If you are pinning the whole way around (I don’t if it has ironed well) then put two pins on each seam to highlight the stop.

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Sew the back waistband using the guides on you machine to keep it even.  Then topstitch the top of the waistband the whole way around.

Flat Fronted Dress e

Step 6

Time to insert the elastic.  Starting at one of the side seams feed the elastic through till only a little is still visible.  Pin this in place so it doesn’t pull through!

Flat Fronted Dress f

Step 7

Time to sew the elastic in place.  Sew on the right side of the waistband so you can see what it will look like.  I start on the topstitched line on the top of the waistband and sew down the seam to the second line of stitching.  Then with the needle in the fabric life the presser foot and spin it around to sew back to the top edge again.  Remember to lock stitch or reverse a few stitches at the start and at the end!

Flat Fronted Dress g

By sewing on the top of the waistband it is much easier to keep it looking tidy.  Here you can see what both sides look like.

Flat Fronted Dress h

You can safely remove the pin after that!

Step 8

Feed the elastic the rest of the way through the back waistband, and repeat the above for that side.  As you can see the pin is crucial this time in holding the elastic in place.

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Step 9

Sew the front part of the waistband, again on the right side of the fabric using the same guide on your machine you used for the back!

Flat Fronted Dress i

Step 10

Just about there!!!  Well you are actually finished if you didn’t want to put a cute little expandable pocket on it, but I do!

Pin the pocket in place.   I have gone for one pocket on the front left side, slightly closer to the middle than the side seam.  But you can put them wherever you like!  I just use a couple of pins but go nuts if you feel like it.

Flat Fronted Dress j

Step 11

Sewing the pocket in place,  I like to sew a little triangle at the top edges to prevent the stitching pulling out or the fabric tearing.  A little square would look cute too.

20150726_120205Pocket Top Triangle

There are probably a hundred ways to do this but I will show you what I do.  Start on the top corner (1), sew down the side to the seam on the bias binding (2), then reverse back up to give it strength (3).  Then with the needle in the fabric I spin it round to sew along the top edge to (4), then with the needle in again I spin it round to aim back at where the side seam and the seam on the bias meet (2).  Then carry on sewing right around the pocket (5).  I like to leave the needle in the fabric to turn the bottom corners too.

NOTE:  I find it much easier to use a smaller stitch length, this allows you to be more accurate as it is more likely you will line up in the right spot.  Also I often turn the needle by hand for the last couple stitches as you have much more control than with the foot pedal!

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I will have to find a wee model so you can see what it looks like on!