Expandable Pocket

A quick break from the ‘All About Skirts’ series, meet my expandable pocket!  I guess it’s only a kind of break as I designed this with another skirt in mind, which you will all get to see soon! ☺
This is the test pocket sewn onto a piece of scrap fabric to test out my pattern.  I was pretty happy with how it turned out so thought I’d share it with you.  And what would be the point without a full tutorial and free pattern to go with it!
Expandable Pocket a
Free Pattern!  Click the link to download the Free Expandable Pocket Pattern it is a pdf pattern on one A4 Page.  Make sure you print it in actual size!  It has a few measurements on it so you can check the scale.  Apologies it is in centimetres but as you print and cut the pattern and use it as a guide it shouldn’t matter for the imperial users!
The finished pocket will measure approximately 10cm (Almost 4”) square.  So you can adjust it to make it bigger or smaller.
You can make this pocket with or without Bias Binding and both options are available on the pattern.

Step 1

Print out the pattern and fold it all up so you can see how it all works. 

Step 2

Lay the paper pattern folded out onto you fabric and cut around it.  I didn’t use any pins or mark the fabric.
Expandable Pocket b
If not using bias binding you will need to use the 1cm allowance at the top.

Step 3

Use the paper pattern to place the vertical folds (not the edges) starting with the ones marked green for the bias binding.  Iron these by lining up with the paper pattern as in the picture below (top left).  Start with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.  Then repeat the same for the other green fold, you can see what it should look like in the (bottom left) picture.  After you have ironed those, turn the fabric over and fold up the fabric in the same way as the paper paper pattern, when the edges and folds line up iron it flat (right picture).
Expandable Pocket c

Step 4

Topstitch the green folds to keep them in place, if you are not using binding move onto Step 7.
Add any embellishments now, it will be much easier to sew knowing where the panels are but before it is all joined together!

Step 5

Cut and sew the bias binding over top of the top stitching.  You can cut it a little long and trim it after sewing.
Expandable Pocket d

Step 6

Sew a single line across the top of the pocket while it is folded up.   Make sure this is close to the edge so that the bias binding will cover it.  This will make it much easier to sew on the bias binding afterwards.

Step 7

Overlock/zigzag the sides and bottom (folded) to stop fraying.  If not using bias do all four sided, top and bottom folded.
Expandable Pocket e

Step 8

Sew bias binding across the top of the pocket, again I like to make it a little long and trim after it is sewn.  Skip this one if not using bias!
Expandable Pocket f

Step 9

If you are not using bias then fold and iron the top fold and topstitch while all folded.
Expandable Pocket g
Iron in the edges, starting with the pink line on the pattern to make the mitre corners at the bottoms.  I didn’t use the paper pattern for this, just made sure they were even.
Expandable Pocket h

Step 10

There you have a cute little pocket!  It can sit nice and flat but still has enough room for those little treasures kids love putting in their pockets, or it will actually fit the car keys!  I have put one on my Flat Fronted Skirt, I think it’s very cute!  You can check out that tutorial for how to sew these cute pockets on.  Enjoy your pocket!

Expandable Pocket i