Betty Bodice Dress with Pleated Front (Unlined)

You can also make the Betty Bodice Dress without worrying about lining.  Nice and light for those hot summer days that should be arriving here shortly!

Betty Bodice Dress T2 a

I will be bringing you many different options for the Betty Bodice Dress, over the coming weeks.  For this dress I used a pleated front and gathered back, which I am loving the look of!

Betty Bodice Dress T2 (19)

This one is sleeveless too, don’t worry I’ll be adding a sleeve pattern piece soon.  I have been working out the finer details of how I want it to look.  You can see a gathered capped sleeve option in my first trial dress.  Look at that gorgeous girl, I can’t believe she is 7 already!

 Betty Bodice Dress T2 (23)

I finished all the seams with 1cm single fold bias tape.  I had only used the single fold as a trim before, but what a neat way to finish a single layer garment!  I have added a tutorial at the bottom of this post.

Betty Bodice Dress T2 (24)

Loving the tie back at the moment!  I made the opening larger to allow for the narrower bodice and still being able to get it on.  It can be pulled over the head or by stepping into the dress and pulling u from the bottom.

Betty Bodice Dress T2 (4)

I like the bigger opening, nice and breezy for summer!

Betty Bodice Dress T2 b

The pleated front with a gathered back gives a great shape to the dress.  I love the slim fit of the longer bodice and the front pleats keep it nice and flat on the front but still allow plenty of room for movement.  It’s no good if you can’t play while wearing it!

Betty Bodice Dress T2 (25)

I topstitched the first 15cm of the pleats so it would wash well and be easy to iron back into shape afterwards.

Betty Bodice Dress T2 (29)

I have a free pdf pattern in a Size 8, with a full tutorial to go with it!  You can check it out here.

Betty Bodice Dress T2 c

Wonder how many dresses she will need this summer?  Not nearly as many as I want to make!!

Tutorial: Using Bias Tape to finish the edges

20151003_110239

You will need single fold bias tape (binding).  I used 1cm (3/8”) which fitted quite well.

20151003_110305

Gently iron the bias open, you don’t want to remove the folds!

20151003_110353

It should look like this afterwards.

20151003_110603

Pin on to the edge of your garment, leaving a little edge so that the crease closest to the edge is roughly the same as the seam allowance away from the edge (1cm – 3/8”).

20151003_110640

For the join iron over a small fold on the underneath layer.

20151003_110732

And pin in place.  For a loop piece (e.g. neckline or armhole) I don’t pin down the overlapping piece, I start sewing from just beside the overlap on the underneath side.  Sew all the way around and hold the last piece straight as you sew over the join.  This will prevent any puckering if the bias tape gives slightly while you sew.

20151003_110910

Since this example is straight I just sewed from one end to the other.

20151003_111015

Trim off any excess that won’t be covered when you fold it over.  See next steps.

20151003_111045

Ensure your fabric stays flat, and iron over the fold.

20151003_111129

It should look like this.  Take care not to iron out the remaining crease.

20151003_111246

Fold at the first crease, then fold over so that the bias is on the inside of the fabric.

20151003_111351

Press in place making sure a little of your fabric is visible from the inside.  That way you won’t get the bias tape peaking out on the right side.

20151003_111704

Sew in place! I have used black and neon green to make the stitching visible.  Although the green is still quite hard to see.  I sewed this on the inside, but you could also use your machines guides and sew on the outside (tends to give a neater finish).

All finished!!

2 thoughts on “Betty Bodice Dress with Pleated Front (Unlined)

Comments are closed.