Welcome to my Tote Style Handbag Tutorial! I love handbags but am always struggling to find one I like. No matter which brand I buy, they fall apart after not nearly long enough for my liking! So I thought I would make my own! This one has an optional Internal Pocket.
My Tote Style Handbag had its first outing to the Fishing Club for lunch. The verdict…I love it! It’s just the right size for me, it can fit everything including my cardi when I got too hot. Perfect!
I wouldn’t just make one to show off and not share the pattern and tutorial with you! That wouldn’t be fair would it!
Back to the beginning…I bought this fabric on a weekend away in Hamilton a couple of months ago. When I saw it in the shop I just had to have it! Even though I had no idea what I wanted to use it for, I bought a couple of meters anyway. Probably have enough to make 10 Tote Style Handbags!
What you will need to make my Tote Style Handbag
Fabric – Measurements in Chart Below!
Heavy(ish) Fabric like cotton duck or denim is ideal. I washed mine first to be sure it would wash well later…it’s amazing how dirty handbags get!
Lining can be lighter weight than the outside but doesn’t need to be. I used a lightweight denim.
Internal Pocket Fabric of your choice.
35cm (a little less than 14”) Zip for top opening
18cm (7”) for Internal Pocket
Step 1 – Cut your Fabric
I haven’t created a PDF printable for this pattern as it is all rectangles! Check out the chart below for the measurements and quantities.
Step 2 – Sew Main Pieces Together (*Only if using 2 piece pattern for patterned fabric)
This really is as easy as it sounds. Lay your fabric with the right sides facing and pin the bottom side together. Match your pattern up if you wish, but the seam will be on the bottom of the bag so won’t really be seen.
Sew with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.
I then overlocked the seam for extra strength, as the bottom will carry a bit of weight. Zigzag or an overlock stitch on your regular machine will be fine too.
Press the seam over ready to topstitch.
As you can see I haven’t matched my pattern. It didn’t worry me as it is on the bottom of the bag.
Topstitch the pressed seam, making sure you are sewing on the side the seam is folded under on. So that the topstitch will hold it nicely flat and again provide extra strength.
Step 3 – Adding Internal Pocket (Optional!)
Take your lining piece, and lay it down flat right side facing up.
You will now need to sew your insert pocket. Due to the length this tutorial would be all in one, I have added a separate tutorial for Sewing Internal Pockets. Head over there to complete this step.
Step 4 – Sewing Up the sides
Fold fabric piece in half right sides facing and pin side seams together. Sew both sides, I again like to overlock for added security.
You can repeat this step for the lining piece too! Whether you chose to do the internal pocket or not the steps are the same.
Step 5 – Boxing Out the Bottom
Now we need to box out the bottom corners. Get your ruler (or measuring tape is fine too) ready!
Measure 5cm (2”) up the side seam and mark with a pin (or washable marker/pencil).
Measure 5cm (2”) in from the SIDE SEAM (not from the edge of the overlocking) and mark again.
After I have pinned I like to add a pencil (washable marker) mark. You can do this straight away instead of pinning, but it was easier to show the measurements with the pin over the ruler!
Fold the fabric so that the two marks (pins) line up. I use my pin to ensure the marks line up. Pin in place.
Being careful to stay square pin out to the edge of the fold. I’m sure there is a fancy way to make sure you stay straight but I just eye ball it, as long as it looks right it will be fine!
Sew along the pinned line. Then overlock just next to the seam. You can also zigzag and trim away the excess.
Now that you’ve got it sorted, you get to practice it three more times on the the other corners! By that I mean the bottom corners of the main fabric and the bottom corners of the lining.
Step 6 – Making the Straps
I made my straps using the same fabric as the bag, but you can mix it up with different fabric or even webbing straps. To make the fabric straps you will need to have cut out the two strap pieces on the chart.
Fold in half lengthwise with the right sides facing (Use a small seam allowance here – see photo!)
Turn the straps around the right way. I have created some photo steps to show you how I do it.
Then feed the safety pin down through the tube, you may need to help it turn at the end it is gathering at by pulling the outside layer over top of the inside one.
Now you will need to press it flat. You may need to wiggle it to make sure it is not folded in at the seam.
Now the last thing for the straps is to topstitch both sides to give the strap some strength and rigidity.
Woo hoo! Another step closer to the finish line!
Step 7 – Attach Straps
With your main fabric the right side facing out
Lay the straps on top of the bag in this rough layout. Then better grab that ruler again!
Measure 10cm (4”) in from the side seam, and leave 2.5cm (1”) of the strap over hanging the edge. Pin in place. Repeat for the other half of the same strap.
To do the other side turn the bag over and lay flat making sure the side seams are at the folds. That way you can match the straps up with those on the opposite side, without having to measure again!
Sew all four straps in place, I like to go over them a few times to be sure. I used the edge of my presser foot for the seam allowance, so as long as your seam allowance is less than 1cm (3/8”) that way the stitching won’t be visible later on.
Step 8 – Join the Outer Fabric and Lining Together
Tuck the outer part of the bag inside the lining.
Line up the raw edges.
Pin at the two seams first. I like to fold one seam in each direction so that it sews nicely and will fold over neatly. I use two pins to keep it in place.
You can pin all the way around the top of the bag, but you do need to leave a 10cm (4”) gap to turn the bag around the right way. If your fabric is very thick you may like to leave a little more. I use different coloured pins to mark the opening, double pinning also works well!
Sew starting from the edge of the gap and sew all the way right round to the other gap marker. Reverse a few stitches at each end (or lockstitch).
Time to turn the bag around the right way. Push it all through the gap you left. Here is another set of photo steps!
Once you have it around the right way press the seam with your iron. Fold the opening pieces to match the rest of the edge.
Pin the opening closed and topstitch the whole top edge to secure the seam. This will also close the opening.
If you are not adding a top zip then you are finished!
Step 9 – Add Top Zip (Optional)
Change to your zipper foot if you have one!
Pin the zip in place on one side of the bag, I folded the tabs at the ends of the zips back in underneath the zip. It’s OK to have a little gap at either end.
Starting sewing down your topstitching seam at the open end of the zip, with the zipper head moved out of the way. Sew up to the zipper head and stop with the needle in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and move the zip head past the presser foot. Lower the foot and carry on sewing till the end. And guess what? …Yep another set of photo steps!
Once you have sewn all the way down the one side of the zip it should look like this.
With the zip closed pin the two strap areas in place. This is so that the straps line up when the zip is closed.
Then open the zip to make it easier to pin the rest in place.
Again sew from the open end, you may need to swap sides with your zipper foot (or needle position settings).
You will get to this point where it gets hard to reach. Again leaving the needle in the fabric lift the presser foot and move the zipper head past the foot.
Once you have done that you should be able to wriggle it around to get to the end.
Congratulations on your new Tote Style Handbag!