What you will need
Fabric – Medium to heavy(ish) cotton duck, denim etc
1” Elastic (waist – 3”) so for Harry this was 20”
Thread, scissors, general sewing supplies.
Step 1 – Print out your shorts pattern and assemble
Note: You will not need to print the last two pages of the pattern for that size.
Do not trim off the external edges!! Cut off the pieces you need to piece the pattern together but leave the top edges on. This will allow the room to alter them.
Step 2 – Cut your Fabric
Step 3 – Sew Centers
Get that iron earning it’s keep and press out those seems. It’s winter for most of you but here it is 28°C in my sewing room today, had to turn the heatpump (aircon) on to counteract the iron!
Pin and sew the inseam (crotch) in the same way. Take care to pin the centre seams together accurately so that this happens…
Yay they line up perfectly! Don’t panic if yours don’t, it’s the crotch no one is really going to see it.
Step 4 – Sew Sides
Step 5 – Waistband
As you overlock stretch the elastic up to the next pin and sew right at the edge of the elastic. That way the fabric overhang will be trimmed off but you don’t want to cut the elastic! (Note: I would normally hold the fabric on the pin and pull to stretch, sometimes you just need three hands to take photos at the same time!)
Here you have the finished piece…I hope yours looks the same!
Fold the elastic over and pin in place at all four seams. Then just like before stretch out between two pins and pin the center in place. Make sure the waistband stays the same width, your don’t want it wider in places.
If you want to add a label do it now before pinning the centre back over. It is much easier to use a couple of stitches to hold it in place now than try and get it sitting nicely when we sew the waistband in. It will be caught by the waist seam so a few stitches will be fine.
Time to sew! Starting at the center back sew along the overlock edge (or zigzag), don’t forget to lockstitch first!
Just like with the overlocker pull the waistband so that the fabric is sitting flat while you sew. Carry on all the way around till you are back at the start, then lockstitch.
That is the waistband finished!!!
Step 6 – Hem
All that is left to do now is hem the legs. With the splits folded out (see photo above) over lock the raw edges. You can fold over twice instead of overlocking just skip this bit.
And now you have overlocked edges!
Press the overlocked edge over by about 1/2” and press in place. Take care that the folds do not stick out over the split edge.
Pin in place. If you are doing a double fold instead of overlocking you will need to fold it over once with a small 1/4” fold and then again with a 1/2” fold to encase the raw edge. You can make these larger but then your shorts will end up shorter.
Sew on the right side of the fabric with a 1/4” seam allowance, starting at the bottom of the side seam as pictured above. Sew all the way around to the same point on the other side seam.
Once you get to this point, leave the needle in the fabric and pivot the fabric around so that you will sew up the side of the split. Lower the presser foot and sew to just above the split.
Once just above the split leave the needle in and pivot again to sew across the side seam. You will want to sew an even amount of stitches on both sides of the seam. Example: if it takes 3 stitches to reach the seam then sew three more on the other side. Sew over this piece a few times (reverse over it and sew back again).
Then pivot again and sew down the other side of the split, down to the seam and lockstitch.
Repeat on the other leg!
There you are a great project completed! Some rather cute colour block boys (or girls) rugby shorts.
Let me know if you have any questions!