Cute Kiwi Cushion Free Pattern Tutorial

Cute Kiwi Cushion Free Pattern + Tutorial

Meet my cute kiwi cushion! Nothing quite like a little national pride and what better than a Kiwi. The small fluffy flightless bird of New Zealand we name ourselves after.  Not the equally small and fluffy fruit which we know as kiwifruit rather than just ‘kiwi’ as I have noticed many other countries do.  This cute kiwi cushion would be a great learn to sew project, especially with the little kiwi kids.

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Nappy Diaper Wipes Travel Pouch Pattern Tutorial Pdf

Baby Nappy & Wipes Travel Pouch

This gorgeous little Baby Nappy & Wipes Travel Pouch will fit into your regular handbag for those short trips. When my two were still little I used to drag around a rather large baby bag (diaper bag) everywhere we went.  When they got a little older I so wanted to use a regular handbag that I ended up putting a nappy and a packet of baby wipes in with my regular handbag contents.  Not a great look standing at the counter to pay trying to find your wallet hidden in between the nappies! One of these Baby Nappy & Wipes Travel Pouches would have been perfect. Too late for me now but I’m sure I have a few friends that would like one…and of course plenty of you here will have a use for the pattern too!

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Hot Dish Caddy Tutorial + Free Pattern

The Hot Dish Caddy is just the thing for taking hot dishes out to pot luck dinners or BBQ’s.  In New Zealand we would say ‘bring a plate’ which means a dish/plate of food to share, and has confused many visitors over the years who actually turn up with a plate to eat off.  I believe we even did that once when we first moved to NZ from The Netherlands!  With this tutorial and free printable pdf pattern you can make your own Hot Dish Caddy to easily carry your hot dish from the oven to wherever you are going.  Not to mention it will help keep it nice and warm in the process too!

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Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress + Pattern & Tutorial

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern a

Meet the Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern and tutorial!  Hannah loves her easy on knit dresses, no need to muck around with buttons, ties or zips.  Since I have been wanting to make a Hi-Lo hem pattern for a wee while now, why not combine the two!  This gorgeous fabric came from Hannah’s Great Grandma, she had kept it for years wanting to make a nighty out of it ♥

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This is a simple single layered knit dress.  I have used the same fabric to bind the neckline and armholes using a double needle.  Don’t panic if you don’t have a double any stretch stitch will work (including zigzag) it just won’t have the same coverstitch style look to it.

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I have made a PDF pattern to share…yes it’s FREE!  It is in a size 8/9, I love this dress so much that I am looking at making a full size range for you.  I’ll keep you posted on how that goes!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (71)

 

What you will need

  • Knit (Stretch Fabric) 1m is enough (a little over a yard), in this tutorial I am upcycling a T-Shirt Dress I bought purely for the fabric!
  • Overlocker – Is handy but not essential.  You can zigzag the seams if you don’t have an overlocker.  I like to use a narrow zigzag.
  • Thread, Scissors, Pins etc
  • Double needle for finishing (optional)
  • And of course you will need the Pattern Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress PDF Pattern

NOTE:  All seem allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated

 

Step 1 – Print/assemble pattern & cut fabric

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I have made this pattern fit on only 4 pages!  Who doesn’t like to save on paper and ink!  It can be printed on either A4 or Letter size paper, just make sure you select ‘actual size’ not ‘shrink to fit’.  Check the test square as shown above!

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Cut the top strip off on pages 2, 3 and 4.  Then you can overlap them in place and tape together.

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As you can see the bottom doesn’t quite fit on the page that is why there are two smaller separate pieces next to the main pattern.

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Cut the two smaller pieces out and match up the letters.

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Trim off the edges and tape in place!

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And do the same for the Back Hemline.

Now you are ready to cut your pattern out.  Cut around the entire pattern, do not cut the front hemline line or the front neckline line just yet.

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You can now use it to cut your back piece.  Line up on the fold making sure the stretch is going across the fabric (same direction as the stripes).

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Note: If you are using a pattern or stripes, line up the front hemline with a stripe or pattern piece so that you can do the same when cutting the front piece.  That way they should match up.

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Now to adjust it to a front pattern piece.  Cut the front hemline from the outside edge, leaving the last centimetre or so still attached.  I like to place a piece of tape over the attached piece to prevent it from tearing.

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Now you can fold the excess over and out of the way…and it saved you printing an extra 4 pages of pdf pattern!  If you wish you can just print the pattern twice and cut out two separate pieces.

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Use the same method for your front neckline.

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Now you can cut the front piece just the same as the back.  Remember to line up with your stripe (or pattern) on the hemline at the fold.

 

Step 2 – Sew side seams

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Pin the two side seams together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other.  Note: Line up those stripes!  If your pieces don’t quite line up at either end don’t panic we can trim them up at the end.  It is more important to match up your pattern/stripes.

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Sew using your overlocker or regular machine.  Since the stretch goes across the fabric it doesn’t even need to be stretch stitch.

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While the dress is still inside out pin the two shoulder straps together and overlock or sew together.

 

Step 3 – Bind the Neckline and Armholes

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First of all your will need to cut your binding strips (or use bought ones!).  I made mine 4cm (1 5/8”) wide, by 52cm (20.5”) for the neckline and 38cm (15”) for the armholes (x2).  You are better off cutting them a little long as the amount of stretch and thickness of your fabric will make a difference to how much you use.

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If you are using stripes make sure to cut each strip with the same pattern placement, that way your edges will all have a stripe in the same place.

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Start by turning your dress the right way around, and pin your binding 1cm (3/8”) overlapping the underarm seam.  With the right sides of the fabric facing each other.

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Then gently stretch the binding as you pin the whole way around, lining up the raw edge.

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Match up the two ends of the bias so that the line up with the underarm seam and mark with a pin.

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Sew with a straight stitch.

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And then trim the excess down to about a quarter inch.

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Sew using a narrow zigzag stitch and a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.

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You will need to pull gently as you sew to keep the underneath layer flat.  Sew right the way around back to the start.  Don’t forget to lockstitch or reverse over a few stitches at the beginning and end.

Repeat this step for the other arm and neckline too.  For the neckline I like to start at one of the shoulder seams, I think the join is less visible there than in the back of the neck.

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And now you should have something that looks like this!  Time to change to that double needle!

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Fold the binding over the raw edge and pin in place.

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I like to do one at a time, pin and sew then move onto the next one, it saves pins moving and getting in the way on the narrow shoulder pieces.

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Sew on the right side with your double needle.  Line up your needles so that you are near the edge of the bias closest to the main body of the dress (as in photo above!).

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Trim the excess fabric from the inside (carefully!), I find small scissors easier and less likely to cut the wrong layer.

Now repeat for the the remaining arm hole.

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The neckline is sewn in the same way but don’t forget to pin in a tag if you want!

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Woo hoo!!!  That’s all the binding finished!

 

Step 4 – Hem

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All that is left to do is hem!  You can overlock the edge first but I don’t like the bulky look it gives and it distorts the stretch fabric a little too.  I just fold over the raw edge by a little over 1cm (3/8”) and pin in place.  It pays to be fairly accurate as you will be sewing it from the right side so will have to rely on your machine guides to keep you on track.  Sorry for the photo quality here!  I didn’t notice the hazy area till after I had already sewn it!

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Sew the hem using your double needle on the right side of the fabric.  Check as you go to make sure you are catching the raw edge.  You can leave your raw edge a little longer and trim as you did with the binding.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern

I like to live on the edge and didn’t trim this one…only just caught it all!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern b

And there you have a gorgeous and very easy to wear Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress!  Hannah loves hers and I’m sure she’ll like this stripy one too ♥

Boy's Dress Shirt Pattern and Tutorial Free

Boy’s Dress Shirt Pattern + Tutorial (FREE!)

Boy's Dress Shirt Pattern and Tutorial Free
Welcome to my Boy’s Dress Shirt Pattern and Tutorial! I have been putting in the hard yards these last few days to get this boy’s dress shirt ready for you all!  If you follow me on Instagram you might have seen the updates, if not follow me!
Simple this shirt maybe but there is still quite a bit of work involved in making a pattern and turning it into a PDF.  Luckily I enjoy the process!
Boy's Dress Shirt Pattern and Tutorial Nina Makes
This shirt is a classic style dress shirt for a little boy.  The Pdf pattern is in Size 7/8 which is a little on the large side for Harry but will last him a little while.  So far I have only made the one size but feel free to adjust it to make it work for you!  I also have plans for a more fitting version…I’ll let you know when that makes it on to the current to do list!
Boy's Shirt Pattern Free Nina Makes
I love that it is so simple to dress boys up.  Just a nice pair of shorts/pants and a dress shirt and you’re away!  You can add a sweater vest for cooler times or even make a long sleeved version.  Use contrast stitching for a more modern look, although I’m not sure I’m the person to be asking about cool…34 (nearly 35) years old surely I’m way too old to know whats ‘cool’ anymore!  In fact the word cool probably isn’t cool anymore!

 

What you will need to make the Boy’s Dress Shirt Pattern

  • Fabric – Take your pick as long as it’s fairly lightweight it should be fine. You will need 104cm (43″/ 1.14 yards) of 115cm (45″) wide fabric. Allow a little extra for matching patterns and if you want to cut the yoke on the bias.
  • Bias Binding – 1cm Single Fold
    • Neckline – 44cm (17 1/4”)
    • Hem – 100cm (39 1/2”)
  • Pattern – You can download my Boy’s Dress Shirt Pattern here.  As always my patterns are hand drawn (yes I’m talking pencils, paper, erasers and fine tip sharpies) so they are not computer software perfect but they are most importantly free!
  • Note: Seam Allowance is 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated

Step 1 – Print and Assemble your pattern and cut your pieces

You will need to print the pattern in actual size (no scaling), it will print on both A4 or letter size paper.  Print out just the first page if you are unsure and measure the test square before printing the rest.

Boy's Dress Shirt Tutorial Step by Step

The pattern has arrows to show the grainline and instructions on how to cut your pieces.  I cut my pocket and back yoke pieces on the bias because I liked the look of the plaid going at an angle.  That is totally optional you can cut those pieces on the grainline too if you prefer.

NOTE: If you are using interfacing cut the collar piece as noted on the pattern, and cut two strips of interfacing 2.5cm (1”) wide and 51cm (20”) long.  These are for the button placket and are optional but a good idea on thin fabrics.

Step 2 – Create Button Placket

Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (21)
I like to get this step out of the way and create the button placket first.  This will keep these edges neat and prevent them from fraying making harder to do at the end.  Above you can see what they will look like once finished!
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (2)
You can decide which side you want the buttons on (most men’s shirts have the buttons on the right side and the left lays on top).  Which is what I have done here.
Lay your left side front right side facing down and lay the interfacing in place right against the raw center edge of the fabric.  Trim the curve at the neckline to match that of the fabric piece.
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Head over to your iron and press in place.
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While you are at the ironing board fold the interfacing over and press.  If you are not using interfacing fold over by 2.5cm (1”) and press.
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Fold over and press again.
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Sew down the folded side using a 0.5cm (3/16”) seam allowance, remember to lock stitch or reverse over a few stitches at the start and end.
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Fold the placket back out one fold, it is laying right side facing up in the photo above.  Press again.
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With the right side facing up topstitch both edges nice and close to the edge.  This will keep it sitting flat rather than folding back under.  And that is the left side finished.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (5)
Now for the right side place and press your interfacing 0.5cm (3/16”) in from the raw center edge.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (6)
Press the raw edge over on top of the interfacing (or just press over the same width if not using interfacing).
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Fold over and press again to completely encase the raw edge and interfacing.
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Sewing on the wrong side of the fabric, stitch close to the folded edge to keep the folds in place.
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And topstitch the folded edge too.
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And now you should have two pieces that look like these!!

Step 3 – Join Back Pieces

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You should have two back yoke pieces and one back piece.  You will see that the two back pieces don’t quite line up, this is to allow for two small pleats, so lets pin these first.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (24)
Measure in 5cm (2”) from the armhole edge on both the left and right of one of the yoke pieces.  Mark with a pencil or a pin.  Also mark the centres of both the back and the back yoke pieces, it will make the next step easier.
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With the right sides facing pin the back piece on top of one of the yoke pieces, one pin at each end and one in the middle.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (27)
Place small darts folding over towards the outside edge at each pencil mark (or pin).  Now the raw edges line up nicely as the back and the yoke piece are the same width.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (29)
Lay your second back yoke piece on top with the right side facing down.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (31)
Pin in place, making sure that the darts stay in place.  You should now have your back piece sandwiched in between two back yoke pieces.
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Sew with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, just using a regular straight stitch.
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When folded back open the seam is hidden inbetween the two layers of the back yoke.
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Press well!!!  I can’t stress enough it is all about the pressing if you want a neat and tidy finish at the end!
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Then topstitch the pressed seam so that it stays neatly in place.  Beautiful!

Step 4 – Attaching Shoulders

Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (38)
Lay your pieces with the right sides facing out (the right way around!) as we will be french seaming the shoulder seams.  Pin the shoulders in place, lining up raw edges.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (39)
Sew with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, and then trim half of this allowance off as shown above.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (41)
Fold over to encase the raw edges.  Press the seam and sew again with  a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, the raw edge is hidden inside just like with the back pieces.  For more detailed steps on french seams check out my post on that here.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (42)
Press the seam flat and top stitch in place, this is optional but I like the look!  Make sure both sides fold the same way.

Step 5 – Attaching the sleeves

Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (43)
This would have to be my least favourite part but it must be done so better get on with it!  Mark the center of the sleeve as shown above.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (44)
Mark the center of the shoulder (NOTE: it is not the shoulder seam, that sits slightly to the front) by holding the two armpit ends together.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (45)
With the right sides facing join these two points together lining up the raw edges.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (46)
Carry on pinning from the center down each side till the sleeve is pinned in place.  As you can see above the edges don’t line up perfectly.  I have left the sleeves slightly larger to allow for any differences in shoulder seams, it would be much worse if they were too small at this point!  We will tidy that up when we sew the side seams.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (47)
Sew the pinned seam using a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, taking care that the both layers of fabric are sitting flat.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (48)
Overlock or zigzag this seam and press towards the shoulder using your iron.
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Then you can top stitch in place.  Again this is optional but it gives a nice look and keeps the seams in place.

Step 6 – Sew Side Seams

Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (50)
This is a nice simple step and it is coming together nicely now!  With the right sides of the fabric facing each other pin the sides and sleeves starting at the armpit.  Take care to line up any patterns.
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As you can see the little additional tab of the sleeve sticks out but we can trim that off after sewing.  Sew with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (53)
Once sewn overlock and press the seams.

Step 7 – Prepare Collar

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You should have two collar pieces (and possibly one matching piece of interfacing).
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (55)
Lay your interfacing on the wrong side of one of the collar pieces and press in place.
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With right sides facing pin the two collar pieces together on three edges.  The interfacing is touching the table in the above photo, so that when turned the right way around it will be on the inside.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (59)
Sew around the three sides.  Then trim off the two pointed corners and clip into the curve as shown above.  Do not cut the stitching!
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Turn right way around and press.  You make like to use a tool to push out the points from the inside.  I use my fabric pencils as the have pointed lids, knitting needles work well too, but be gentle.
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Time to top stitch again!  1cm (3/8”) in from the edge this time.
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Now we need to join the neck band onto the collar.  Sandwich the collar in between the two neck band pieces with the right sides facing each other.  Line up the raw edges and pin in place.
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Sew the neckband in place, starting at one curve and going right around to the other.
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Turn around the right way and press.

Step 8 – Attaching Collar to Shirt

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With the right sides facing each other pin the collar in place.  Mark and line up the centres of both pieces as you did with the sleeves first (or match up any patterns).
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The edges may be a little long.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (77)
You can adjust the curve so that they line up!  Don’t forget to pin that in place too.  To hide this seam on the inside we are going to use the single fold bias.
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Add the bias on the inside (will touch the neck of the wearer).  You need to pin it folded open.  The crease closest to the raw edge should be 1cm (3/8”) away from the same raw edge.
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Here you can see it a little closer!  You will need a little overhang of bias too, this allows you to fold it in at the end.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (83)
Sew in place.  Do not sew past the edge of the collar to the end of the bias, just stop and lock stitch at the edge.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (85)
Now it is time to re fold the bias and fold it over to hide the raw edges.  If your raw edge is too wide to fit inside the bias you can trim it back to fit using scissors.  Make sure the back side sits flat as you are going.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (86)Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (87)
Here is how I folded in the ends of the bias.  Gives a lovely neat and super easy finish!
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (88)
Don’t forget to tuck in your tag!
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (89)
Time to sew it in place.  I like to sew this and topstitch the neckband in one go, just sew close to the edge of the bias (yes I got my pins backwards…happens all the time!) and when you get to the end pivot with the needle in the fabric and topstitch right around the neck band back to the bias at the other side.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (90)
Here you can see how I went around in one go!
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Not perfect but not too bad either!  Letting go of my perfectionist tendencies!
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (94)
Woo hoo it’s attached!  Only hemming, pocket and finishing the sleeves to go.
Update: And Domes or buttons!

Step 9 – Finish Sleeves

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Fold the sleeves in by 1cm (3/8”) and press in place.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (96)
Fold in again by 2.5cm (1”) and press.  Take care where your patterns or stripes end up, you can always make the fold slightly larger or smaller it won’t matter.
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Sew from the inside close to the folded edge, and there you have a neatly finished sleeve.  Repeat on the other sleeve.

Step 10 – Hem

Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes (102)
In place of double folding the hem I am using single fold bias for a nice neat finish.  Pin the bias folded out onto the right side of the fabric, with the crease 1cm (3/8”) in from the raw edge.  Just as you did when attaching the collar.
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Trim the raw edge so the frayed strings are removed and it will fit easily inside the folded bias.
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Fold over the bias tucking in the ends just like for the collar.  You need to fold it so that a little of the shirt fabric is visible on the inside, that way the bias won’t be visible on the outside.
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Oops almost forgot, it’s a good idea to press it first!
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Then pin it all in place, take extra care pinning the side seams so that they will sit nicely once sewn.
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Take it nice and slow using a regular presser foot, or if you have one you can use a bias binding foot too.  I don’t so slowly it is!

Step 11 – Add a Pocket (Optional)

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Fold all the sides in 0.5cm (3/16”) and press.  Fold the top over again by 2.5cm (1”) and press.  Mitre the bottom corners so you don’t end up with a bulky spot making it difficult to sew in place neatly.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes b
To mitre the corners, use the fold creases as a guide line them up when folding the corner in and press (left photo).  Then fold sides back over and press again, and there you have a mitred corner!
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Sew the folded top down.  Sew just in from the edge so you can line up with the seam when sewing around the out side edge.
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Decide where you want it and pin in place.  Sewing the triangles at the top will prevent it ripping out or coming undone as easily.

Step 12 – Add Buttons or Domes/Snaps

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Mark the top closure 5cm (2”) down from the edge of the collar.  Then the others every 8cm (3 3/16”) after that.  That should make 5 in total.  I didn’t put one right at the top on the neckband as I never do those up, but if you do then go ahead and add one!
You can add buttons and button holes at this point instead of domes if you like too.
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For domes I do all the top domes first, then using a couple of pins to hold the shirt closed I use the top domes to mark the spots for their bottom halves.
Boy's Dress Shirt Nina Makes i (10)
AND Congratulations you are all finished!!!  Harry is well over it by now…too tired he said!
I would love to see your creations please tag me on social media (links in the green circles on the right side of the page, up a wee way from this super long tutorial!)
Enjoy ♥

Sewing for Boys

Boys Colour Block Shorts a

I have noticed I have way more tutorials for girls than for boys.  There are so many patterns and gorgeous things to sew for little girls but not nearly as much for boys.  Well I suppose the Baby section is all unisex but I definitely need to do a few more boys tutorials!  I love these Colour Block Rugby Shorts and will definitely be making more next summer.  Harry wears them all the time! 

Superhero Cape d

Dress ups are always fun and who doesn’t want to be a superhero (Cape Tutorial Here)!  I think Harry likes dressing at least as much as Hannah, if not more.  We have Batman, Spiderman, Optimus Prime, Cowboy and Pirate costumes all home made to some degree.  Well except Optimus Prime he got that one for his birthday.

20151103_074556Simple Raglan Tee (33a)

The Simple Raglan Tee is another great wardrobe staple.  So easy to make and easy to wear.  I love being able to contrast the shoulder fabric, but you could leave it all the same for a plain colour tee.  I have some more versions of this one coming up soon!

Harry Swim Trunks (41)

I just made Harry a new pair of Swim Trunks as he has outgrown this pair already.  Since they are made in exactly the same fabric just a little larger I didn’t see the point in photographing them again!  But these are super simple to make and I got them made in the hour before a birthday party where he was going swimming.

But I think what I really need to do is to make a few more ‘good clothes’, the kind you wear out for dinner or to a party.  I was thinking a simple dress shirt and I have to admit I am a little partial to a sweater vest too!  That will have to wait till the weather cools down and I’m not too keen to get the knitting needles out anytime soon so maybe a knit fabric version…

In my searches for cute boy’s clothes I did find that Dana from Made has a series called Celebrate the Boy which is definitely worth a look too!

Are there any boy’s items you would like to see a tutorial for?

Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover

With all the scorching summer weather we’ve been having a little person I know has been spending all her time in nappy covers.  One was getting a little snug around the waist so time to whip up a new one!  Instead of the woven cotton diaper cover I made with the french seams, I wanted to make a comfy lightweight stretch one.
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (39) (2)
I based my design on a pair she had with the legs openings on the front of the cover.  It looks a little odd but if you picture a crawling baby their legs are out the front!  It also makes a great shape for plenty of nappy room.
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It was rather difficult to get a picture of the little miss in these…sitting still is not her strong point!
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (45)
But I managed to get one from the back while she played with my car keys!  What is it with babies and car keys?  Sadly all the other photos were blurry!  I will have to try and catch her in better light the next time I see her!

 

What you will need

  • Stretch Fabric – You don’t need much, I like to use the cut pattern piece as a size guide when I look through my scrap fabric drawer!
  • Elastic – 3/4” (2cm) wide by 17” (43cm) long.  Mine was super stretchy so you can use a little more if you need to.
  • Ribbing for leg openings – 1 1/2” (4cm) wide by 9” (23cm)
  • Overlocker (optional but easier!)
Note: This nappy cover is sewn using a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

 

Step 1 – Print PDF & Cut Pieces

Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (1)
It really is very simple!  The pattern piece is the same for the front and the back, you just cut the leg openings out of one (the front) piece.  You will also need to cut the two pieces of ribbing and the elastic to length.

 

Step 2 – Attatch Ribbing

Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (8)
You will need to stretch the ribbing gently as you go, you will end up with roughly half an inch extra ribbing at either end.  This will help make it easier to sew and can be trimmed off later on.
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover b
Sew with the right sides facing each other using a small zigzag stitch.  I find it much easier to sew with the ribbing underneath, that way you can keep an eye on all the gathers to make sure they don’t fold double underneath!
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (10)
It should look a little like this!
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (11)Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (12)
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (13)
Fold the ribbing around the main fabric as shown in the photos above and pin in place.
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Again using a small zigzag stitch (or a double needle looks and works great if you have one!) sew close to the edge of the ribbing closest to the main fabric (photo above).
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (15)
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (16)
Trim off the excess ribbing on the inside of the near the seam but not so close that it pulls out or you cut the stitching!

 

Step 3 – Close Leg Openings

Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (18)
Now that you have the leg openings bound in ribbing it is time to close the end.
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover a
With the right sides facing each other, I like to overlock these two together.  You can sew using zigzag if you don’t have one!
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Now you want it to sit nice and flat so it doesn’t dig into chubby little legs!  Tuck the excess overlock thread in underneath the fold.
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I prefer to hand stitch this step that way you can’t see  it from the right side.  Starting at the raw edge of the ribbing stitch the two layers together all the way to the finished edge of the leg opening and back again for extra strength.
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There we are much better!  Repeat on the other side.
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (25)

 

Step 4 – Sew front and back together

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Pin the front and back layers together, if you are using striped fabric make sure to line them up!  Start by pinning the sides together and work your way around the bottom.  Spread any gather on the back side evenly along the bottom edge.
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Overlock (or zigzag) right the way around.  Nearly there!!

 

Step 5 – Add Waistband

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Join the elastic and pin place spreading the gather evenly.  I have a tutorial with the full instructions for joining the elastic and pinning this style waistband here.  Just skip the overlocking first step!
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I have worked out that you can overlock and join the elastic all in one step!
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And there it is, now is a great time to tack that label in place if you want to add one.
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Fold over the band and pin the seams in place first.  Then stretch the area between the two pins to spread the gather and pin the centre in place (another example in the link for the elastic above).
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover (36)
Sew with a regular zigzag stitch over top of the overlocking stretching as you go.
Toddler Stretch Nappy (Diaper) Cover c
Don’t do what I did and forget to check what colour stripe is on the back!  A little unpicking is always fun…but it definitely looks better after I changed the bobbin thread to black!
There you are all finished!  Enjoy all the chubby baby cuteness!

Semi Sleeved Poncho Pattern + Tutorial

Semi Sleeved Poncho c
I have to be honest and say other than dress-ups I have never been a big poncho fan.  They always have that slightly hobo vibe and I don’t mean the chic kind!  That was till I saw a semi sleeved poncho…
Semi Sleeved Poncho (42)
My Oma (Grandma) sent Hannah a semi sleeved poncho in one of her parcels this year.  I looked at it and thought…hmmm a poncho…yay!  Then I had Hannah try it on and I loved it!
Semi Sleeved Poncho b
Poor kid is covered in mosquito bites after our second camping trip this year.  I think we had a wee visitor in the tent on the last night!  This poncho is a little different to the one Oma sent but the idea is the same.  A poncho with two additional seams up the sides to create a semi kind of sleeve.  This front fabric is a satin (I believe) and the back in lightweight knit.  These are both gifts from friends de-stashing so I’m not exactly sure what they are!

 

What You’ll Need

  • Fabric – At least one needs to be a stretchy knit.  You can have both front and back knit, or font woven and back knit.  As a square the pattern piece measures 53.5cm (21”) high by 66cm (26”) wide so your fabric will need to be at least these dimensions.
  • Knit Bias – I cut strips of the knit fabric I used for the back for this as I didn’t have any stretchy bias.  Instructions below!
  • Double Needle
  • Sewing Machine  (You can use an overlocker in a few places but I didn’t)
  • Thread
  • Pattern – You can download my PDF Pattern for a Girls Size 7.  If you need a different size you can use the pattern as a shape guide and go from there.  The design is very simple so you could easily make your own pattern using a top you already have as a size guide.

 

Step 1 – Cutting Fabric

Semi Sleeved Poncho (8)
Excuse the join in the table it is school holidays here and I have to work around a stack of colouring in the kids were doing!  You will need to cut a front and a back piece.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (6)
For the back piece fold your fabric and line up the edge of the pattern on the fold.  Your pattern will look a little different as I am using my original hand drawn draft.  Pin or use weight to hold in place and cut around the pattern.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (3)
Now repeat for the front piece with one little alteration.  Place a piece of tape over the ‘front’ neckline right at the fold edge, then cut down the curve of the front neckline to the edge of the tape.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (4)
This allows you to fold it under and out of the way without having to cut and print to seperate pattern pieces!  Saving paper and loads of time!
Semi Sleeved Poncho (10)
The last pieces to cut are the knit strips for the edging.  I use a regular ruler for this which is 4cm wide. 
Semi Sleeved Poncho (12)
You will need roughly about 3 meters (118”).  It is ok to have joins, I will show you how I did those below!

 

Step 2 – Add Front Neckline

Semi Sleeved Poncho (14)
I seems like an odd way to start but it really is easier this way!  Pin your knit strip onto the right side of the fabric (Update: stretch the knit fabric a little as you go for the front too, this will make it sit flatter at the end).  Leave a little bit of the knit strip overhanging at both sides.  With the right sides facing and the raw edge lining up.  Carry on till the whole front neckline is pinned.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (16)
Sew in place using straight stitch, unless you are using a knit fabric for the front too then use a small zigzag stitch (see the next step).  I used a 1/4” seam allowance but I would recommend a little larger like 3/8”.  Which is what I’ll be doing next time!
Semi Sleeved Poncho (17)
It should look like above.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (18)
And from the right side.

 

Step 3 – Add Back Neckline

Semi Sleeved Poncho (26)
You pin the back neckline just the same as the front and again stretch the knit strip slightly as you go.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (27)
Sew using a small zigzag stitch so that it retains the stretch.  This will allow the neckline to stretch over the head.

 

Step 4 – Joining the Knit Strips

Semi Sleeved Poncho (19)
You may need to join the knit strips together to make them long enough to go right round the bottom and sides.  To do this you take the two knit strips and lay them right sides facing one on top of the other with the end lining up.  Sew with a straight stitch using a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (20)
Then trim off the excess.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (21)
When turned the right way up it will look like above.  You don’t need to join at the usual 45° angle as the knit strip is stretchy unlike regular bias binding.

 

Step 5 – Add Edge Every Where Else!

Semi Sleeved Poncho (24)
Pin and sew the binding all the way around the sides and bottom of the front and back in the same way as the neckline.  The only places that don’t need edging are the shoulder seams.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (25)
When you get to a join it is best if it is sewn folded open like obove.  It reduces the bulk of the seam, but if yours pulled over during sewing don’t panic it will still work fine!

 

Step 6 – Sew Shoulder Seams

Semi Sleeved Poncho (28)
Lay your two pieces with the right sides facing each other with the shoulder seam together.  Making sure you line up the seams of the knit strips at each end.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (29)
Fold the seams over outwards on top of the knit strip rather than the fabric.  This is important otherwise folding the knit strip over will not work and you will be able to see the raw edge on the inside.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (31)
Sew using a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, and carry on the seam in the same line over the knit strip.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (32)
Trim off any excess.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (33)
Now you could use your overlocker to finish the shoulder seam but I have chosen to zigzag the raw edge to prevent fraying.  The main reason for this is that my overlocker still has black thread in it and I couldn’t be bothered changing it for such a small job.  Another plus side people who don’t have an overlocker will not feel left out!  Note how I didn’t sew the knit strip, it will be folded over so doesn’t need edging.
Repeat for the other shoulder.

 

Step 7 – Finish Edging

Semi Sleeved Poncho (34)
I started with the neckline.  Fold over the knit strip and pin in place.  I like to do this inside out and pin on the right side.  But do whatever works for you!  The main fabric should remain flat and the knit strip should fold around to encase it.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (35)
Here it is all pinned and still inside out.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (36)
Time to dig out that double needle.  If you don’t have one you can use a wide zigzag but it won’t look quite the same.  Mine is quite wide at 4mm you can use any width you like.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (37)
Starting at a shoulder seam lockstitch (or sew a few stitches and reverse over them).  Then sew the whole way around the neckline, and lockstitch again at the end.  Line up the left hand needle so that it sews on the folded knit strip.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (38)
It should look like this!
Semi Sleeved Poncho (39)
Now you just need to trim off the excess knit strip.  I use very small scissors for this to reduce the risk of cutting the wrond fabric.  BE CAREFULL!  You really don’t want to cut the wrong layer now or cut the stitching either.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (40)
There you have a finished neckline.  It is not sitting perfectly yet but I havent pressed it yet either!
Semi Sleeved Poncho (41)
Time to getting pinning and so the bottom/sides in the same way.  I just about used all my pins only 4 to spare!  Then carry on and sew just like you did the neckline, all the way around in one big go.

 

Step 8 – Sew Semi Sleeves

Semi Sleeved Poncho (43)
Last but not least is the semi sleeves of this poncho.  Well I suppose it is optional if you wanted a regular poncho!  Lay you poncho right side facing up and make sure the edges line up.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (45)
On your pattern cut the side seam dotted line.  Lay your pattern piece on top lining up the shoulder seam and neckline.  Fold the ‘sleeve’ section out of the way and mark the seam line with a pencil or marker.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (46)
The line is hard to see in the photo but I have pinned along the line, making sure the bottom seams line up.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (47)
Here is the view from the back, make sure you catch both layers with the pins!
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Now you are ready to sew!  Start at the bottom seam making sure they are still lined up, lock stitch and sew following the line right to the end.  Then at the end lockstitch very thoroughly as this point is the most likely to come undone.
Semi Sleeved Poncho (49)
Repeat for the second side seam using the same pattern upside down.
Semi Sleeved Poncho a
It wouldn’t be Hannah without a barrage of silly faces!
You could even colour block this with a centre seam…might be more of these coming!