Baby Fleece Hunting Tee

Fleece hunting tops are almost an institution here in New Zealand!  My in laws are farmers and the whole family love a fleece hunting tee.  It’s not even just farmers/hunters so many kids at school are wearing fleece hunting shirts too…and why not they are comfortable and warm!  They don’t even need to look like hunting shirts depending on your fabric choice!

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My SIL asked me to make a couple for her little boy.  He is nearly 3 months old and just the cutest thing!  So after three Hunting Tees I am finally happy with my pattern and ready to share it with you!

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I have created a PDF pattern for you (yes it’s FREE!) it is in a Size 1 – so roughly 9 – 12 months.  These little hunting shirts are loose fitting and are worn over top of other layers, even though they are short sleeved.  I have made them with a V style neck so that they don’t ride up in little ones faces, and I don’t know about you but I can’t stand things right under my neck!  Except for scarves somehow they are ok.

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What you will need

  • Fleece Fabric – It will need to stretch (mine is 2-way)
  • Domes – One set for the shoulder
  • Overlocker – For Hem and side/sleeve seams.  You can just sew the side seams and do a folded hem but you will need to add extra length to the hem to allow for it.
  • Sewing Machine that can zigzag or double needle.  Or any stretch stitch you like.
  • Thread

NOTE:  The bulk of this Hunting Tee is sewn in small zigzag stitch and a seam allowance of 3/8” (1cm).  I will specify if you need to use something different!


Step 1 – Print and cut your pattern

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Print your pattern (6 pages) in actual size (or no scaling).  It could pay to just print the first page and check that the 1” (2.54cm) square measures up.  Then you can safely print the other 5 pages.  This pattern should work on both Letter and A4 sized paper.

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Line up the pages in the order shown in the chart on page 5. 

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Trim off the the bottom outside border on pages 1, 2 & 3.

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Trim off the side borders on pages 2 and 5.

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Now you are ready to tape them together.

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Tape the bottom row together making sure all the borders line up.

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Do not line up the edge of the pages, you need to line up the edge of the printed border.  Sometimes the printer can skew a little or a page can load a little to either side.

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Cut out your pattern pieces.  Now you are ready to cut your fabric!


Step 2 – Cutting your fabric

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Cut your fabric as normal, making sure the stretch of the fabric is following the arrows marked on the pattern pieces.  I have also added the grainline arrows in case you are wanting to use a different fabric than fleece (the pattern pieces in the photos don’t show all the details yet as I added to them after testing!).

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The back piece is cut as normal on the fold.  Then with the piece laying right side up you need to trim the right hand shoulder piece to the red line on the pattern.  Remember, this is with the fabric facing the right way up!  The trimmed side is for the normal seam, the left side is longer for the domes.

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Here is the front piece laying right side up.  This one also needs to be trimmed.  You will need to lay your pattern on upside down!  So you will be trimming the top left side.


Step 3 – Attach Neck Facings

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With the right sides of the fabric facing each other pin the neck facings in place.  The raw edges should line up with the neckline on the front and back pieces.

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Sew starting at one shoulder right around to the other.

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You will need to sew down 3/8” (1cm) past the V and pivot leaving the needle in.  Then sew up the second side.

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Repeat this step for the back facing.  This should be much simpler as it is only a curve!


Step 4 – Join Front and Back Shoulder

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You will need to join the shorter side (left side with the fabric the right way up).  Pin the back and front together lining up the seams from the facings.

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Fold out the facings seams to one either side to reduce the bulk in one place.

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Sew all the way from one side to the other.


Step 5 – Prep Right Shoulder and Topstich Neckline

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On the other side (both front and back) sew the double layered piece as shown above.  Do not sew past the edge of the facing as you will see this from the outside.

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Trim the corners of these last seams.

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And turn right side out.

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You need to make a cut into the seam allowance at the V of the neckline.   This allows it to sit flat when turned around the right way.

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Pin the neckline in place.  You will needle to wriggle the seam between you fingers to bring the stitching to the edge.

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Make sure that the shoulder seam is folded out flat before folding over!

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Topstitch the entire neckline and the tops of the shoulder pieces on the front and back using the same zigzag stitch.  Start at one shoulder at the armhole edge, then you can sew all the way around in one go.  Use the same pivot technique for the V neck.


Step 6 – Add Dome

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Position the domes on the top corner of the shoulder at the neckline side.  I use the corner in the stitching as a guide.  Remember that the front will overlap the back piece.

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There you have two domes ready to go!

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Trim the excess of the facing from the inside.


Step 7 – Adding Sleeves

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Starting on the non domed side pin the centre of the sleeve piece to the seam at the top of the shoulder, with the right side facing.

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Then pin the two ends.

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Spread any gather evenly and pin the remaining seam.  Pin with the body side up so you can keep an eye on the seem staying flat.

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I overlocked these in place.  You can zigzag as normal if you don’t have an overlocker.  Again I used a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance.

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There is your sleeve attached!

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Time for the other side.  Pin your domed shoulder togther before pinning sleeve.  Line the centre of the sleeve up with the seam on the top of the shoulder.

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Once you have pinned the centre remove the first pin so that you don’t sew over it!  Pin the rest of the sleeve as you did the first one.  Make sure that the layers stay flat when sewing!

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Step 8 – Sew Side/Sleeve Seams

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Pin the side and sleeve seam in one go.  Make sure to line up the seam at the armpit.

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You will notice that the bottom doesn’t line up completely but…

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Once you sew the seam allowance they will!

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I again overlocked this seam but you can zigzag if you prefer.


Step 9 – Hem Sleeves

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Fold over the raw edge by 1/2” (1.27cm) and pin in place.

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Zigzag with a 3/8” (1cm) starting at the seam and sew right around the sleeve.

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There it is all done!  Repeat on the other sleeve.


Step 10 – Hem Bottom & Add Label

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As you can see I just overloacked the edge.  You can fold the hem just the same as the sleeves if you prefer.

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Choose where you want your label to go and use a regular glue stick to stick in place.

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Sew around the edge of the label.  They you can trim the edges if you like.

Congrats you are all finished!  I would love to see your creations if you make a hunting tee and please share this post using the links below!

Upcycled Toddler Sleeping Bag

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You know all those blankets or flannel wraps etc that you have for your baby?  Once they grow you don’t use them anymore…turn them into baby sleeping bags!  The easiest way to keep the blankets on ever!

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I have used baby sleeping bags for both my kids and absolutely love them.  No worrying about your child getting cold when they kick their blankets off, which mine were both excellent at!  The fleece one above is one I made for my Niece earlier this year, and they love it.  So I will be using that pattern again this time.  I have altered it to allow a little more room for the woven (non-stretch) fabric.

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What you’ll need

  • Baby blanket/wrap in appropriate weight, if you are making a winter weight sleeping bag you can use two layers.  I am using cotton flannel wraps for a summer weight bag.  It will need to be at least 1m x 1m (1.09yards).  As long as it is this long on one side you can always make the front or back out of different fabric.
  • Bias Binding for single layered bags (optional for double layers)
  • Domes or Velcro
  • Pattern – Toddler Sleeping Bag Free PDF in size 12m – 24m


Step 1 – Print Pattern

Print your pattern in ‘actual size’  or make sure the ‘scale to fit’ box is unchecked depending on what software you are using.  This pattern has the front and back on the same pattern, so you will need to print two copies and cut one for the front and one for the back.

Step 2 – Cut Your Fabric

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Depending on the size of your blanket/wrap you may need to up-pick the seams to get all the additional room you can!

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I then washed and dried the fabric after un-picking, to help wash out the creases and it also gets rid of most of the cut thread.  Who doesn’t like a shortcut!  This pattern is cut on the fold, you will need to cut one front and one back.

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You should have one front piece and one back piece.


Step 3 – Sew the sides and bottom

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With the right sides facing (inside out) pin and sew or overlock from one armpit all the way around to the other.  If you are sewing you may need to zigzag the raw edge if your fabric is going to fray.

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Step 4 – Reinforce dome area

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I like to sew pieces of folded out bias to the area where the domes will sit.  This will prevent them pulling out as the flannel fabric alone is not strong enough to hold the domes.

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Pin the bias pieces onto the inside of the fabric, just a little down from the top.

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Sew in place and trim off the excess.  You won’t see the raw edges at the sides as the bias will cover that soon!


Step 5 – Bias Binding

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Add your bias binding starting with a folded over edge at one of the underarm seams.  Pin all the way around until you are back in the same spot!

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If you need more instructions for this step you can check out the start of the Bandana-ish Baby Bib Tutorial.  I have sewn the folded over bias slightly differently this time but either way would work fine!

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Sew in the crease closest to the raw edge, starting from the folded over piece at one underarm.  Sew all the way around then overlap the end over top of the folded edge and lock stitch.

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Your bias will sit up like above.  Time to fold it over!

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While you are folding it over pin in place as you go.  It will not sit perfectly round all those curves just yet but a good press after you have sewn it will work wonders!

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And here it is sewn in place!


Step 6 – Add Domes

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You can add the first domes on the shoulder tabs, making sure that they go through the small piece of bias you attached earlier.  I have a tutorial with all the dome instructions here.

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As this fabric doesn’t stretch I like to add a dome 2.5cm (1”) in from the side seam to be able to take in the armholes, but still leave plenty of room to get the sleeping bag on or off.

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In the above photo the sleeping bag is inside out, the smooth parts of the domes are on the inside of the seam.  That way if you have them left open when the child is bigger it will still be comfortable.


Step 7 – Complete!!!

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My model is a good sized 13 Month old and you can see there is plenty of room for movement and growth.  So it will be large on a 12 month old but a bit of room to grow is always a good idea!

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Congratulations you have finished!  Hopefully you will get much more use out of all those blankets and wraps now!

Colour Block Nappy (Diaper) Cover

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To make these gorgeous nappy covers I used a free pattern from ‘Made’.  You can follow this link to see her tutorial and free pdf pattern.  The blue one was made using Dana’s instructions but I made a few changes to create the colour block version.

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When I made the blue version I didn’t like the raw edges left on the side seams and crotch seam.  So I zigzagged those to prevent fraying, you could overlock too but the seam allowance was very small at the crotch (1/4”).

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So I decided for the colour block version I would French seam these seams for a neater finish.   I also used French seams in this dress if you want to check them out!

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Would you believe this is inside out?  Looks pretty neat and tidy right?

What you’ll need

  • Fabric – I used remnants I had left over from other projects
  • Bias Binding 1 metre (roughly 40”) half for each leg hole
  • Elastic – I used 3mm width for legs & 1cm for the waist.  The lengths vary on the size you are making.  Check the pattern.
  • Sewing Machine (no overlocker needed!)
  • Thread and usual tools


Step 1 – Pattern

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Print and prepare your pattern as normal on all but the fold edge.  You will need to add 1cm (3/8”) to the fold measurement for seam allowance.  For a little more room for the french seams you could add 1.27cm (1/2”).

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This is what both pieces should look like!

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*NOTE:  For the regular covers you can fold the extra edge over and use the same pattern


Step 2 – Cut Fabric

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Lay your two different fabrics on top of each other, with the wrong sides facing each other.  That way you can cut both pieces at once, and they will be ready to sew the first seam too.


Step 3 – Sew Centre Seam

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Sew the centre seam (straight edge) with a narrow seam allowance.  I used 1/8” (sorry metric users my machine has imperial measurements on it!).

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Then press the seam so it looks like this.  The fabric will now be right sides facing each other.  I press the seam to one side and then fold over the other side.  but as long as it looks like above it doesn’t matter how you get there!

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Sew this with a seam allowance a bit larger than the first seam, so that it encases the first seam totally.  Now you can just press it flat, it will generally want to go one way over the other so roll with it.

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Here is the post pressing view.  Now just repeat for the other half, making sure you use the same seam allowance again otherwise they won’t match at the bottom.


Step 4 – Sew Crotch

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I have pinned my two pieces right way around and trimmed off the tabs.  We won’t be needing those as we are using bias on the leg holes.

French seam this in the same way.  This has very little in the way of seam allowance so keep it a small seam.

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Step 5 – Sew Side Seams

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Again have your nappy cover right way round and pin the sides in place.  I have trimmed of the tabs on this end too.

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Once the seam is finished the two layers probably won’t line up perfectly.  Don’t panic will fix that now!

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You can see I have just trimmed the long side a little.


Step 6 – Line the Leg Openings with Bias

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I did this a little differently than Dana, mainly because that is how I have done it many times so it was quicker for me!  It is a similar technique as in the Capped Sleeves Tutorial if you would like a more detailed explanation.

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To join the bias  fold over the end of the bias by about 1cm (3/8”) place this folded edge so it lines up with the crotch seam.  Then start sewing from this point right around.  You can see that in the left photo.  Then trim the left over bias so it overlaps a little and sew over it to hold it in place (right photo).

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Now fold the elastic inside the bias and pin in place.  Leaving a 5cm (2”) opening at the start.  I don’t trim the elastic to size till after I have sewn the casing.  I f you want use the measurement from the pattern you could mark it with a pen, and cut on that mark once you have pulled it through.  I compared it to the first blue pair I made to gauge the size.

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Make sure your pins are catching both layers of the binding, you need to be sure you are sewing both layers.  Sew the bias closed (leaving the gap), nice and close to the edge of the binding, you don’t want to catch the elastic.

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Now you can pull the elastic through to the desired size.  You can see I leave a pin in at the short end so I don’t pull it through!

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Here it is all gathered up.  You can trim off the excess elastic and sew it together.  I just overlap the two ends and zigzag over it a few times.

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Pull your elastic in to the binding by stretching the leg hole open, and fold the binding over the join to close the gap you had left.  Again pin in place and sew as before.

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That is one leg done, one more to go!


Step 7 – Label (Optional)

I really liked how Dana had her label on the outside of her Nappy Cover so I added one too.  I would do this now before adding elastic to the waist!

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Step 8 – Waistband

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Fold over by  1/4” and press, then again by 1/2” and press.  Then sew in place leaving a 1” gap to insert the elastic.  Insert the elastic and sew the gap closed.

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Woo hoo you are finished!  Now just a few more smaller ones for all the little babies this summer!

Baby Bib Squared!

Time for one more baby bib!  A simple change to the Basic Baby Bib – No Gaping Neck pattern and you can square off the bottom of the bib.  For a fun twist on a standard bib.  I like the square look and it also gives great coverage to keep those messy eaters clean underneath!  The No-Gaping neck is the same as the Basic Bib so no food should be able to sneak in underneath!  Lucky this little cutie turned up just as I had it finished!  Always nice to have a visitor turn up in perfect time for a coincidental photo shoot ♥


I sewed this one in a layer of stretch terry towelling and a stretch knit floral.  If you are new to sewing I would suggest non- stretch (woven) fabric.  It’s a little easier to work with.

What you will need,

  • Fabric – I mainly use off cuts for bibs, choose a soft absorbent fabric for at least the underneath layer.
  • Domes (or a button, velcro etc)

Print out the pattern making sure to print in ‘actual size’ or that ‘shrink to fit’ in unchecked.  Cut out the first page and stick it onto the second page so that the pattern lines up.  With a ruler and pencil to make the adjustments to square of the bottom corner.  See the photo steps below!!

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You make the bib in the exact same way as the Basic Bib Bib – No Gaping Neck if you want the full tutorial check it out there!  I will just show you the small change you need to make for the square corners.

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Once the pieces are cut pinned, sewn you need to trim the square corners so that it will sit nicely when turned right side around.

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It should sit nicely like this!

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If using stretch I recommend that you thoroughly pin before topstitching.  I always put in a few extra pins in the opening area to keep it from rolling in.  If using woven press (iron) it well then your won’t really need to pin it, but knock yourself out if you want the security!

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You can finish it off just like the Basic Baby Bib – No Gaping Neck.

This time I decided to use metal domes, but go for whatever you have or like!  I have used plastic domes, buttons (watch out for buttons they can be a chocking hazard) and velcro.  All work well, but I prefer the look and ease of use of the domes.

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Let me know how you get on in the comments!

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Upcycled Merino Baby Pants!

I have a little Niece who’s been wearing plenty of pairs of pants I have made her, here are the links if you want to check them out! Upcycled Footed Baby Pants, Contrast Baby Pants & Baby Track Pants.  But I also have another Nephew coming soon ♥ Yay!!!

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I have made him a newborn pair of merino baby leggings out of one of his Mother’s old merino tops which had gotten holes in the sleeves.  With a second top of hers to upcycle I need to make another pair for him!

I didn’t share the first pair or even take a photo (might be able to get one of him wearing them soon enough!), so I thought I’d better make up for it this time!  I have drafted my own simple pattern in a Size 3 to 6 Months +, with a long leg length.  You can always roll the cuffs for a while, or make them shorter!  With merino being so stretchy I’m sure it will fit until it is too short, and this little one’s parents are rather slim and tall.

What you’ll need

  • Fabric – I’m upcycling a top but you can use bought fabric if you like.  It doesn’t have to be merino but it will need to stretch!
  • Elastic 25mm (1”) – 42cm (16.5”)
  • Sewing machine
  • Overlocker – not essential but does make it easier (don’t worry if you don’t have one I’ll give instructions for both!)
  • Pdf Pattern – Size 3-6 Months + – Here is the link to Download the free pattern!


Step 1 – Print and tape your pattern

As always make sure you print the pattern using the ‘no scaling’ or ‘actual size option’.  My patterns are based on A4 size but should work on any size paper if printed in actual size.  Measure the 2.54cm (1”) square to check whether it has printed correctly!


Cut out all your pieces and tape the bottom of the leg on.  The red lines indicate where they meet up.  The photos say it all really!

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Step 2 – Cut your fabric

If you are using new fabric skip these first few pointers and cut as normal!

For upcycling a top, first cut up the side seams, and all the way around the sleeves.  Cut as close to the seam as you can.

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This is what you should end up with.  Keep those sleeves!! I’m brewing up a plan for those, will add a link here when the blog post is up!

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Now you can fold the back of your top in half lengthwise to create the fold to cut the pattern on.  I leave the shoulders attached, but if you find it annoying feel free to cut them.

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Notice I have put the pattern as high up as possible, this is so that there is enough room at the bottom to cut the cuff pieces.  You will probably find that the back is big enough but front with a lower neck is not, so be careful and check before you cut!  Repeat this step with the front of the top to cut the other half of the pants.

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I prefer to use weights rather than pins, I find it soooo much easier!  No pins pulling at the fabric and it’s way faster…both big pluses in my book!

Cut your cuff pieces, making sure the grain line is running in the right direction, these need to stretch.

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I cut mine on the fold and cut them in half afterwards, you can cut them completely separately if that works better for your fabric layout.

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That is the cutting done!!!  You should have a front and back which are exactly the same (how much easier is that!) and two cuff pieces.

Step 3 – Sewing Sides and Inseam

These pants are really simple to sew, first of with right sides facing pin the sides and inseam.  Overlock (or sew with an overlock stitch/or zigzag), I have only allowed for a small seam allowance so no need to adjust it for overlock only.

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For a bit of a closer look

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Step 4 – Cuffs

Fold the cuff in half with the right sides facing and overlock (or sew a straight stitch is fine as you are sewing with the grain so won’t stretch anyway).

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Fold the sewn cuffs over to make a double layered tube, and with the pants around the right way place over the leg so all the raw edges line up.

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Line up the inseam with the seam in the cuff.  I do like to stagger the seams slightly otherwise it will get too thick in one spot.

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Spread the gather evenly (there should only be a small amount) and pin in place, then overlock (or zigzag/overlock stitch).

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That’s the cuffs finished!  Pretty quick!

Step 5 – Waistband

First off I like to overlock the waistband, if you are not using an overlocker you can overlock stitch/zigzag it.

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Now you need to cut your elastic, if you haven’t already.  You will need 42cm (16.5”), and then zigzag the ends together.

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Finished it will look like this,

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If you want to add a tag then now is the easiest time!  Just pin in place and stitch on.  Remember that the waistband will be folded down so it will seem upside down.

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Pin the elastic into the waistband, I like to do this with the right side facing out pinning onto the inside of the band.  You want to pin it just under the edge so that the elastic is covered after sewing.  Here is what it will look like afterward pinning, followed by the steps to get there.  I often find it easier to see what it will look like finished, then the instructions make more sense!

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Pin the seam at the centre of the back of the pants, then fold the elastic in half to locate the centre for the front and mark with a pin.

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Repeat to find the middles of each side.  You want a little more gather at the back then at the front to allow for nappy room, so in turn you need a little more elastic at the front than at the back.  To do this evenly I move the side pins back a little to allow for this.  Yellow pin is the centre, purple pin is where I will match it with the side seam.

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Repeat that for the other side too.  Once the sides are pinned hold them together to work out the centre of the front of the pants and pin to the centre of the elastic.

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After that pin halfway between each two pins so that it is pinned in 8 places in total.  Stretch the elastic to match the pants and pin in the centre.  And there we are, hopefully they look like this!

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Sew elastic on close to the edge using zigzag.  I sew overtop of the overlocking.  You will need to stretch the elastic as you sew so that it matches the fabric.  I like to do this with the elastic underneath.

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That is the elastic secured!  Now it’s time to fold the band over and pin in place for the final round!  To start turn your pants inside out, and fold the elastic over, pin in place stretching as you go to make sure it is even.

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Again using zigzag and stitching close to the edge (on the overlocking) sew around the band stretching as you did earlier, to flatten any gathers before sewing over the area.

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And there you are finished!!  It seams like such a long tutorial for something so simple but at least the instructions should be thorough!!

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Working on some merino all-in-ones too, hopefully not too far away!

Bandana-ish Baby Bib

While I’m  on the ‘No Gaping Neckline’ theme, I thought the currently popular Bandana Bib would be a great idea!  I have made these out of a regular pattern and have found them too loose around the neck, and the gathered neck bunched up over their little chins.  So this is my take on a Bandana Bib!

Option A – A Flat Fitting Style

Bandana-ish Baby Bib Option A

Option B – A more traditional Bandana Bib Fit

Bandana-ish Baby Bib Option B

To make this bib you will need  to print out the Bandana-ish Baby Bib Pattern, which is the same as the Basic Baby Bib Pattern but I have added a red line for the Bandana-ish shape.

What you will need

  • Fabric – absorbent preferably since it is small I used off cuts from previous projects
  • Domes (or buttons, velcro, etc) You will need two sets if making Option B.  With Velrco One piece should still be fine.
  • Bias Binding (Optional – If you don’t want a bias edge use the Basic Baby Bib Tutorial and use the Bandana-ish shape pattern it will work just the same)
  • Iron

Step 1

Print, tape and cut out your pattern.  Cut out both layers of your fabric.  If you have a very thick layer you can do a single layer with this style if you wish!

Step 2

Lay your pattern pieces with right sides facing out (this one will not be turned around later). 

Bandana-ish Baby Bib (1)

Step 3

Pin your two layers together to prevent the fabric twisting and sew around the edge to sew the layers together.  Sew nice and close to the edge, it doesn’t really matter how close you are as long as you catch both layers and it will be covered by the Bias Binding.

Bandana-ish Baby Bib a1

Step 4

Pin your Bias Binding in place.  I found it helpful to iron it open lightly, do not iron out the folds!

Bandana-ish Baby Bib (4)

There is a great You Tube Video on how to sew binding,



Step 5

If you have watched the video you can probably skip the next few steps!  But just in case I will show you how I did it.  This is my first time sewing Bias Binding in this way, I have always used the topstitch method before.  Like on my Expandable Pockets Tutorial.  But I have to say, this is much better for getting around corners!

Sew down the fold in the bias binding, you will need to take it slowly and try your best to stay in the fold.

NOTE:  For the join, I fold over the underneath layer, and overlap the top one a little on top.  You can see that quite well in the Left Photo.  I don’t know if this is the ‘proper’ method but again it’s how I’ve always done it!

Bandana-ish Baby Bib a

Step 6

After you have finished it should look like the photo on the left.  Head over to the iron and gently iron out the seam, then it will resemble the photo on the right.

Bandana-ish Baby Bib b

Step 7

Fold the bias over and pin on the right side of the fabric just underneath the bias edge.  Making sure you catch it on the reverse side with by a couple of mm. 

Bandana-ish Baby Bib c

Do this the whole way around, and it will end up looking like this!

Bandana-ish Baby Bib d

Step 8

Sew around the entire edge right next the the edge of the bias binding.  For the corners it may pay to turn your hand wheel to give you more control.  You do not want to stitch onto the bias, or too far from the edge.

Bandana-ish Baby Bib e

Bandana-ish Baby Bib f

Step 9

Add your domes (or whatever else you planned to use).  The first dome position is marked on the pattern, if you want to make the more traditional Bandana Bib, then add the second dome as shown in the photo below.  Placement is really up to you, so put them where you thing they look best!

Bandana-ish Bib (8)

And you are finished!  Great new Bandana-ish Bib ♥

Struggling with catching both layers of the bias binding? Check out my new post here!

Basic Baby Bib – No Gaping Neck!

20150810_115011I have used many different bibs in my time and some were just plain horrible!  My main complaint was the gaping around the neck, when food spilled it went down the front and in between the bib and the clothing underneath.  Grrr more washing!

So now that my kids are way past bib age I thought I’d get round to making a decent pattern for one!  Although I have been reminded of the bib dilemma while looking after my niece five days a fortnight since my sister has gone back to work.  You can see it sits right under her chin so no chance of the gaping problem!


This one is a Basic Baby Bib in the standard time tested style.  But with a contoured neck that is quite fitting.  I will add some variations on this, in the next little while.

What you will need

  • Fabric – I used scrap fabric left over from other projects.  Something absorbent is ideal (mine is flannel & cotton) terry or towelling would be great too.
  • Domes, Buttons, Velcro etc
  • IRON!

Step 1

Click on the link to print out the PDF Pattern for the Basic Baby Bib.  Tape the pages together and cut out your pattern.

Step 2

Lay your pattern piece on your fabric lining up the fold with the straight edge.  Cut out your fabric, and repeat for the second layer.


Step 3

Lay your pieces right sides facing each other.


Step 4

Pin the two pieces together.  Mark the gap (for turning the right way around) using two pins close together.

Baby Bib a

Step 5

Sew around the edge using a small seam allowance, I use the edge of my presser foot for the guide.  Remember to lock stitch or reverse over a few stitches to lock the thread.


Step 6

We need to cut into the curves so that they will sit nicely when turned the right way around.  You will need to do this for all the corners.  Be careful not to cut into the stitching!!!

Baby Bib c

Step 7

Time to turn it around the right way!  Feed it through the gap you left in the seam and wriggle it between your fingers to bring the seams to the edge.

Baby Bib d

Step 8

IRON!  This is a very important step in getting a good finish on just about anything you sew!  I iron the whole bib making sure the edges are fully unfolded.  Then you will need to fold in and iron down the gap so that it matches the rest of the edge.

Baby Bib e

Step 9

Topstitch all the way around the edge of the bib.  I sew the gap piece first to ensure it stays nice and flat.  Do this on the right side of the fabric (although depending on your fabric choices this bib is reversible), sew nice and close to the edge.

Baby Bib f

Step 10

Add your domes (or buttons and button holes, velcro etc) and you are all done!!!  If you want a smaller neck for a small baby add another dome to one side to make it adjustable.  Full instructions on the domes are in my Baby Doll Nappy Tutorial, if you are wondering!



There will be other versions of the Basic Baby Bib coming soon!

Baby Doll Nappy (Diaper)

After much nagging from my 6 year old I finally got around to making a nappy for her baby doll.

Baby Doll Nappy 045

The main motivating factor was…I got to use domes!  I love using domes!  So bright, colourful and easy!

Let’s get started!

You can download the pattern I used, right here.  It is for a fairly smallish baby doll, so cut out the pattern and try it on to be sure.

What you will need,

  • Scrap fabric, I used some left over fleece from my superhero cape tutorial & an off cut from a skirt from long ago.
  • Domes, 2 sets or Velcro would work great too.  Or even buttons and button holes.

And that’s it!  Nice and simple.

Baby Doll Nappy a

Print and cut out the pattern, or draw your own.  Place the straight edge on the fold, draw/cut around your pattern.  Repeat this step for both types of fabric.

Baby Doll Nappy 018

They should look like this.  Don’t panic if they are not perfect, you won’t see it once they are sewn together!

Baby Doll Nappy 020

Pin your two pieces together with the right sides facing each other.  I like to pin in the middle so I can sew around the outside without having to stop for pins.  Note the two pins at the top (back of nappy), leave the gap between them to be able to turn the nappy the right way around.

Baby Doll Nappy b

Sew around the edge making sure you catch both layers, do a little reverse at the beginning and end to prevent it coming apart when turning it around.

Baby Doll Nappy c

That is how it should look now (top left).  Now cut little nicks out of the curves so that they will sit flat when turned the right way.  Making sure you don’t cut the stitch line!  Also cut the top and bottom right angle corners off, again so it will sit flat.  Now you can turn it the right way around!

Baby Doll Nappy 029

Sew close to the edge right around the outside of the nappy.  Do this with the right side facing up so you can see how it will look when finished!

Baby Doll Nappy 031

Try the nappy on your darling little doll and decide where you want the domes (or Velcro/buttons) to go.

  You can mark the positions with a marker or pin.  With a patterned fabric I just remember roughly where it needed to be and eyeball it!

It is more important to get the two lined up so that it will close nicely.

And here comes my favourite bit, the domes!  I have decided to go with nice bright red domes to match the inside fabric of the nappy.

Baby Doll Nappy 032

This is my dome set, I bought this direct from aliExpress.  They have loads of different options and come from china, freight free.  The prices are way better than any I have found in New Zealand, but you do have to wait a while for it to arrive.

Baby Doll Nappy dI think the photos pretty much say all, but just in case…

Use the pointed tool to make the hole in the fabric, and place dome in said hole.  Place the other half over the pin and use the tool to set dome in place.

Baby Doll Nappy e

The same thing again for the other side (remember to use the right dome pieces!).  I lined it up to be sure the top would sit level when done up.  Then repeat the last two steps again on the other side.

Baby Doll Nappy f

Hey presto! You are done!

Baby Doll Nappy 044

Enjoy your baby doll nappy making!