Show Your Stoff Zierstoff Blog Tour

Show Your Stoff – Zierstoff Blog Tour + Discount Code!

It’s Zierstoff Blog Tour time! I have joined many other bloggers and signed up for the ‘Show Your Stoff Blog Tour’ using the great patterns from Zierstoff. I live on the underside of the globe in little old New Zealand. Since we are heading into our cooler weather I have chosen to make the Yann Hoodie/Shawl Collar Shirt and the Nico Reversible Pants. I think these two will make excellent staples for the cooler months. Both these patterns are available in two size ranges, 6 Months to 4/5 Years and 5 Years to 12 Years. These are nice broad size ranges which should mean you get a lot of use out of your pattern purchase.

 

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How to sew an infant hat - Trio of Baby Hats

Pattern Review – Trio of Baby Hats by Zaaberry

Who can resist a cute baby hat…certainly not me. When I came across the Trio of Baby Hats by Zaaberry I just had to test them out. Well that was 18 months ago but I have finally got around to making them! The above link will take to the Zaaberry blog Trio of Baby Hats Tutorial and Pattern.

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Movie Night Pajamas - Sew a Little Seam

Pattern Review – Movie Night Pajamas by Sew a Little Seam

I have been wanting to sew a pair of these Movie Night Pajamas by Sew a Little Seam for quite a while now. Since Christmas is just around the corner and Hannah needed more summer PJs I though it was high time to move them to the top of the to do list.  I wish I had a few pictures of Hannah in these for you. But it will have to wait till after Christmas morning!  Check out my Instagram for those.

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Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress + Pattern & Tutorial

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern a

Meet the Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern and tutorial!  Hannah loves her easy on knit dresses, no need to muck around with buttons, ties or zips.  Since I have been wanting to make a Hi-Lo hem pattern for a wee while now, why not combine the two!  This gorgeous fabric came from Hannah’s Great Grandma, she had kept it for years wanting to make a nighty out of it ♥

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (11)

This is a simple single layered knit dress.  I have used the same fabric to bind the neckline and armholes using a double needle.  Don’t panic if you don’t have a double any stretch stitch will work (including zigzag) it just won’t have the same coverstitch style look to it.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (9)

I have made a PDF pattern to share…yes it’s FREE!  It is in a size 8/9, I love this dress so much that I am looking at making a full size range for you.  I’ll keep you posted on how that goes!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (71)

 

What you will need

  • Knit (Stretch Fabric) 1m is enough (a little over a yard), in this tutorial I am upcycling a T-Shirt Dress I bought purely for the fabric!
  • Overlocker – Is handy but not essential.  You can zigzag the seams if you don’t have an overlocker.  I like to use a narrow zigzag.
  • Thread, Scissors, Pins etc
  • Double needle for finishing (optional)
  • And of course you will need the Pattern Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress PDF Pattern

NOTE:  All seem allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated

 

Step 1 – Print/assemble pattern & cut fabric

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I have made this pattern fit on only 4 pages!  Who doesn’t like to save on paper and ink!  It can be printed on either A4 or Letter size paper, just make sure you select ‘actual size’ not ‘shrink to fit’.  Check the test square as shown above!

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Cut the top strip off on pages 2, 3 and 4.  Then you can overlap them in place and tape together.

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As you can see the bottom doesn’t quite fit on the page that is why there are two smaller separate pieces next to the main pattern.

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Cut the two smaller pieces out and match up the letters.

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Trim off the edges and tape in place!

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And do the same for the Back Hemline.

Now you are ready to cut your pattern out.  Cut around the entire pattern, do not cut the front hemline line or the front neckline line just yet.

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You can now use it to cut your back piece.  Line up on the fold making sure the stretch is going across the fabric (same direction as the stripes).

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Note: If you are using a pattern or stripes, line up the front hemline with a stripe or pattern piece so that you can do the same when cutting the front piece.  That way they should match up.

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Now to adjust it to a front pattern piece.  Cut the front hemline from the outside edge, leaving the last centimetre or so still attached.  I like to place a piece of tape over the attached piece to prevent it from tearing.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (37)

Now you can fold the excess over and out of the way…and it saved you printing an extra 4 pages of pdf pattern!  If you wish you can just print the pattern twice and cut out two separate pieces.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (38)

Use the same method for your front neckline.

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Now you can cut the front piece just the same as the back.  Remember to line up with your stripe (or pattern) on the hemline at the fold.

 

Step 2 – Sew side seams

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Pin the two side seams together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other.  Note: Line up those stripes!  If your pieces don’t quite line up at either end don’t panic we can trim them up at the end.  It is more important to match up your pattern/stripes.

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Sew using your overlocker or regular machine.  Since the stretch goes across the fabric it doesn’t even need to be stretch stitch.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (43)

While the dress is still inside out pin the two shoulder straps together and overlock or sew together.

 

Step 3 – Bind the Neckline and Armholes

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (44)

First of all your will need to cut your binding strips (or use bought ones!).  I made mine 4cm (1 5/8”) wide, by 52cm (20.5”) for the neckline and 38cm (15”) for the armholes (x2).  You are better off cutting them a little long as the amount of stretch and thickness of your fabric will make a difference to how much you use.

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If you are using stripes make sure to cut each strip with the same pattern placement, that way your edges will all have a stripe in the same place.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (46)

Start by turning your dress the right way around, and pin your binding 1cm (3/8”) overlapping the underarm seam.  With the right sides of the fabric facing each other.

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Then gently stretch the binding as you pin the whole way around, lining up the raw edge.

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Match up the two ends of the bias so that the line up with the underarm seam and mark with a pin.

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Sew with a straight stitch.

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And then trim the excess down to about a quarter inch.

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Sew using a narrow zigzag stitch and a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (52)

You will need to pull gently as you sew to keep the underneath layer flat.  Sew right the way around back to the start.  Don’t forget to lockstitch or reverse over a few stitches at the beginning and end.

Repeat this step for the other arm and neckline too.  For the neckline I like to start at one of the shoulder seams, I think the join is less visible there than in the back of the neck.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (54)

And now you should have something that looks like this!  Time to change to that double needle!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (62)

Fold the binding over the raw edge and pin in place.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (55)

I like to do one at a time, pin and sew then move onto the next one, it saves pins moving and getting in the way on the narrow shoulder pieces.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (58)

Sew on the right side with your double needle.  Line up your needles so that you are near the edge of the bias closest to the main body of the dress (as in photo above!).

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (59)

Trim the excess fabric from the inside (carefully!), I find small scissors easier and less likely to cut the wrong layer.

Now repeat for the the remaining arm hole.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (63)

The neckline is sewn in the same way but don’t forget to pin in a tag if you want!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (64)

Woo hoo!!!  That’s all the binding finished!

 

Step 4 – Hem

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (65)

All that is left to do is hem!  You can overlock the edge first but I don’t like the bulky look it gives and it distorts the stretch fabric a little too.  I just fold over the raw edge by a little over 1cm (3/8”) and pin in place.  It pays to be fairly accurate as you will be sewing it from the right side so will have to rely on your machine guides to keep you on track.  Sorry for the photo quality here!  I didn’t notice the hazy area till after I had already sewn it!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern (66)

Sew the hem using your double needle on the right side of the fabric.  Check as you go to make sure you are catching the raw edge.  You can leave your raw edge a little longer and trim as you did with the binding.

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern

I like to live on the edge and didn’t trim this one…only just caught it all!

Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress Pattern b

And there you have a gorgeous and very easy to wear Hermione Hi-Lo Hem Dress!  Hannah loves hers and I’m sure she’ll like this stripy one too ♥

Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt

Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt d_www
You might recognize this fabric from my Pencil Skirt!  Hannah liked it so much and wanted one for herself.  I had a few remnants left over so thought I’d give it whirl.
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Well as cute as it is it is a little too short for a 7 year old!  It’s not really a wear tights underneath kind of skirt either…

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Simple solution add a knit ruffled hem!
I don’t know about you but I think that is much cuter, and a better length for a little girl!  And extra brownie points as it now twirls!
Now for the tutorial, well tutorials really!

What You’ll need

  • Fabric – Knit mine is ruffled but any knit you like is fine!
  • 25mm (1”) Elastic for the waistband
  • Thread, Pins, Measuring tape etc
  • Sewing Machine
  • Overlocker (Optional)

Step 1 – Measure and Cut your fabric

You will need to measure the pieces there is no printed pattern.  You need the waist measurement, Hannah’s is 21”.  You don’t want the skirt too tight but not too lose either.  Take the waist measurement and add 3 inches (this is for a size 7/8) if yours is much bigger add a little more, or if smaller add a little less.  Roughly between 3 and 5 inches as a guide.  Due to my fabric size restrictions I did two pieces with two side seams, you can just to do a single seam if you like.
 Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt 1 (2)_www
I was restricted in the length too but you can make yours any length you like.  A great way to work it out is to measure a skirt that you already have.  Take this measurement and add 3 inches for waist and hem allowance.  Or you can use an online chart to get the average measurements!  As a quick example Hannah’s is, 21” + 3” = 24”.

Step 2 – Overlock Bottom Edges (Optional) * Only for ruffled fabric

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Overlock the underneath layer as it is difficult to hem the ruffled fabric.  You can just leave it raw most knit fabrics won’t fray, it’s up to you!

Step 3 – Pin and sew the side seams

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With ruffled fabric you need to be very careful when pinning to make sure it lines up and the ruffles are not caught up the wrong way.
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Repeat for the second side.
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If you overlocked and are not hemming you will need to tuck in the ends of the thread.  This just prevents it coming undone while wearing.
Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt e_www

Step 4 – Adding a Waistband

Cut your elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement, for example Hannah’s is 21” – 2” = 19”.
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Join the elastic using zigzag so that it sits nice and flat.  I have a full tutorial on that here.
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Pin the elastic evenly on the inside of the waistband.  I use the seams and pin the elastic in quarters to ensure it is even.  I showed all the steps in the Colour Block Rugby Shorts tutorial in Step 5.
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Sew the elastic in place using an overlocker (or zigzag works great too), just be careful not to cut the elastic with the overlocker!
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It should look a little like this!
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Fold the waistband over and pin in place.
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Sew the waistband in using zigzag stitch, stretching the fabric as you go.  There you have it a perfect waistband without any chance it is going to twist inside the casing or roll up for that matter.  All big plusses in my world!

Step 5 – Hem

If you are hemming go ahead and do that however you like!  You can just fold over and zigzag or use a double needle.  Another cute finish is a lettuce hem which you can do using your regular sewing machine.  Check out Step 9 below for the details!

Step 6 – Adding the ruffle hem

 Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt 1 (30)_www
Cut a strip of knit fabric twice the length of the original fabric.  This allows for the ruffles!  I cut mine 48 inches (Hannah’s waist 21” + 3” allowance equals 24” x 2 equals 48” for this piece.  I made mine 6 inches wide to get the length I wanted.

Step 7 – Gather one long side of the strip

 Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt 1 (31)_www
I use a very easy technique to gather fabric.  Only one line of stitching and minimal pulling.  Set your thread tension as high as it will go (mine is 9) and your stitch length as long as it will go (mine is 4).  Then sew straight down one long edge (top) about 3/8” in from the side.  And there you have ruffles!  DON’T lockstitch and leave the threads at the start and end long.  You can pull on one thread (I find the lower works better for me) to make the gather tighter, or you can wriggle it along to loosen it off.  Again I have a Superhero Cape tutorial with all the photos and instructions!
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Step 8 – Sew

 Ruffle Knit Tube Skirt 1 (33)_www
Now if you were doing this from the start you could attach the ruffle hem before sewing the side seam(s), it’s probably a little easier but as all layers stretch it’s not too bad this way!  Sew the side seam either with the overlocker or zigzag.
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Pin the ruffle hem in place under the bottom layer of the skirt.
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Sew the new hem in place with zigzag stitch close to the edge.
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Here is the inside, not super tidy but not too bad for a fix up!
You can stretch out the seam so that the gathering stitch snaps.  That way the skirt will still be stretchy with the zigzag.  You can unpick it if you really like, but I’ll deal with it if any stray threads come lose later!  It won’t cause it to unravel the zigzag is holding it securely.

Step 9 – Lettuce Hem

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Fold up the hem by about an inch, and pin in place.
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Set your machine to zigzag and the stitch length to F, for me this is just after 1.  As you can see above I had it set at about 1/2 but that was to wide, so I reduced to F.  Sew on the folded edge so one side of the zigzag goes around the folded edge.  It also helps if you pull the fabric from the front and back while sewing.  This is just to hold it taught don’t pull it through the machine.
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There you have a wiggly lettuce hem!
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Just trim off the excess and you are finished!
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Great simple summer staple and so comfortable and stretchy!